Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Nothing special

EXCEPT FOR SURFING.  That right I shredded some waves. Sure I fell a lot, got hit in the head twice and inhaled a bit of saltwater, but boy did I have a great time.  I never really realized how tiring surfing is.  While out in the waves everything is very relaxed even though your all tired and cold and wet.  And I know it's cheesy but I kept thinking of analogies about how the waves and the tide were like life.  It's truly a different experience from any other activity that I have tried (like jogging or swimming). The waves just clear your mind.  There really is no other feeling like it.  

2 comments:

  1. Be careful, Alex, of rip tides, rocks, reefs, things like that. Talk to someone about where you are surfing to see if there are any dangers. Surf with a buddy, too. enjoy but be alert and careful. Surfer Bob

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for the advice. At the time I was being instructed by some pro surfers but I'll make sure to ask more about the are in the future.

    ReplyDelete